Elsa Schiaparelli, the Anti-Chanel

An Elsa Schiaparelli 1930s Fashion exhibit at the the Philadelphia Museum of Art in 2003 honored her work and tried to show the modern world just how much of an influence on the fashion world this Italian designer really had.  We all know Coco Chanel and her fashion line, which is still in production today.  We all know Christian Dior, and his line is still in existence.  Elsa Schiaparelli, however, closed her business in the 1950s after struggling to keep pace with the post-war era of ultra feminine fashion trends.

Coco Chanel called Ms. Schiaparelli an artist who designed clothes.  Indeed, Elsa hung out with the great modern (surrealist) artists of the day and the influenced her fashion designs.  She even collaborated with Salvatore Dali on her famous Lobster Dress, worn by British royalty after World War II.  Frankly, it’s kind of ugly but in context of the times was quite shocking and brilliant.

Her other less-famous designs are much more beautiful and representative of great 1930s fashion.  Take the blue rayon and silk coat in the picture, with metallic thread.  It’s the classic illusion: two faces or an urn with roses in it…?  It’s similar to a Dali painting which can have double meanings.  It’s so 1930s fashion yet so beautiful at the same time.

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